I was dismayed when I discovered the dangers in some hair colors (permanent and temporary). While researchers cannot (yet) prove the link between certain chemicals in these dyes, laboratory animals exposed to them developed more cancer than the unexposed animals. Worse yet, studies comparing people exposed to the dyes (users of hair dye and salon workers) and those not exposed, showed more cancer occurrences in those exposed to the dyes (specifically bladder cancer, breast cancer, lymphomas and leukemia). Like cigarette smoking of the past, the cancers occurred more in those who smoked, but back then researchers could not yet prove the link between smoking and cancer (which they have done today). So researchers know those who use these products are more prone to cancer; they just cannot confirm HOW this happens (as they have with smoking).
Many hair products use dangerous chemicals, and often darker hair dyes use even more toxic ingredients, such as PPD, which is short for para-phenylenediamine. It is dark, because it comes from coal tar (a known carcinogen). Dark colors also have lead acetate (lead is a known carcinogen). Even brands that use natural ingredients still include toxic ingredients. I was so disappointed when I learned my old dye, Naturtint, uses some of these toxic ingredients. A well known blogger recommended some hair dyes, and even some of them had bad ratings. There are so many harsh (carcinogenic) ingredients, I will have to give you a list at the end of this article.
The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has its “skin deep” database that classifies personal care products based upon their hazards or safety. EWG works with researchers to test personal care products and cleaning supplies. They also test individual ingredients and see how these interact with other ingredients. Two green circles around the letter “e” implies an innocent Zero hazard rating. A “1” means very low hazard, but a “10” means the product is as hazardous as it can get (very toxic). I do not have an affiliate partnership with EWG, but I still urge gals to look up this site, because you can type in the name of your personal care products (https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ with 91,562 products) and cleaning products (https://www.ewg.org/guides/cleaners/ with 2,500 products). Sometimes you only type in the general name of a product. If you type in too many details, the data base cannot find your product. For example, you should only type in “Pacifica Nail color,” (which has a bad “6” rating). If you had typed in the product name along with the nail color, the system might not recognize the product.
The EWG data bases are NOT perfect. They do not have some products. This is why you need to be less specific when you type in a product name. If your product is not listed, you can also type in any suspicious ingredients listed in your product to see if that ingredient is unsafe. Furthermore, EWG will carry a product for months or years but mysteriously stop carrying the product in its data base. I have never understood this, so be aware of the imperfections of this website. Nonetheless it is so much better than having no resource at all.
Getting back to my hair color journey, I looked up reviews on permanent hair dyes that had 0 or 1 ratings. One kind is no longer shown in the data base, but the reviewers said it damaged their hair. So I tried the next product with a zero rating, Henna. I followed the directions perfectly and just to be sure it really soaked into my hair, I wrapped my hair with plastic to make sure nothing leaked out. I even left it on extra time. The Henna did not turn my gray (silvery white) roots blond.
So I looked at Redken Chromatics Permanent Hair color (not their shampoo, conditioner or hair sprays which are not safe). This permanent dye had 1 and 2 ratings for hazards. Even the dark shades of Redken have good danger ratings, i.e. 1NW Midnight. This is virtually black and has a “1” rating (very good). Next I read user reviews. This product seemed safer, so I bought the developer and color tubes. It worked perfectly for me!
You cannot buy Redken in a brick and mortar store, not even Sally’s Beauty Supplies. You have to buy it online. You cannot buy it directly from the Redken’s website (nor 2 others ones I found online) unless you have a beauty license for pro hair dressers. Amazon no longer carries it. Walmart carries some of the colors! Yay. Here is a link to Walmart’s selection of these permanent colors by Redken:https://goto.walmart.com/c/3255743/565706/9383?veh=aff&sourceid=imp_000011112222333344&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dredken%2Bchromatics
That Walmart link also includes the developer. You have to buy the developer too. You use equal amounts of each (1 part developer, one part color).
Some of these Ebay sellers offer the developer too, so you can use their drop down bar and see what colors they have and if they have the developer (always sold separately). Ebay has the lowest prices, but each Ebay seller tends to have slightly different stock. As a result, I included a few links with sellers who offer such a variety, among them there will be a choice from colors numbered 1 – 10 and different tones (warm and cool), so here we go for links! Remember, my Ebay links look weird, but the link will take you right to the seller. These are affiliate links–you won’t pay more buying from them if you click my link, but the seller will give me a small commission for the sale.
this Ebay seller has a great selection of Redken Chromatics Permanent Hair color:
Here is another Ebay seller (I have personally bought from this one):
Here is yet another Ebay seller I purchased from:
Here is another Ebay seller’s link:
Here is another seller’s link and this one with iridescent tones too:
OK, one more seller (another one I purchased from):
I do not know why, but Amazon no longer carries Redken Chromatics Permanent Hair color, so I cannot offer a link.
You buy the developer separately, and a bottle does not go bad fast and can last a year or more depending on how thick your hair is (and how much color you need to add).
Here is an Ebay link just for the developer:
Mix equal amounts of color and developer. I like to mix two different colors, since my hair was lighter than one color, but darken than the next number up. Furthermore, as I have grayed I had to forgo my natural color (a warm blond with subtle red highlights), to ash tones. Ash tones better match my silvery roots, so the roots blend better with the colored hair (when the roots begin to grow out). This also means I can go longer between colorings (8 weeks). Another trick I use to extend the time (make it to 8 weeks without the awful “root growing out” look), I do the comb over—yes what balding men do. I gradually part my hair more to the side as it gets closer to the time for my next color. I also pull my hair into comb clips (also called claw clips) that help to raise the hair up, and this also hides roots.
Here is a Walmart link for the clips: https://goto.walmart.com/c/3255743/565706/9383?veh=aff&sourceid=imp_000011112222333344&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dclaw%2Bclips
Here is a link to a whole page of claw clips on Ebay:
Since you must use equal amounts of color and developer, you might need less of one tube (especially if you use 2 different colors). In this case, use a scale, so you have the right amount of everything. This will make your measuring so easy.
Here’s a link to some digital scales (the mini ones) from Walmart: https://goto.walmart.com/c/3255743/565706/9383?veh=aff&sourceid=imp_000011112222333344&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dkitchen%2Bscale
Link to kitchen digital scale on Ebay:
If you only want to add highlights, you need way less color. I do color my entire scalp, but I have very thin hair, so I use a total of 1.3 oz. color and 1.3 oz. developer. My current recipe is 0.9 oz. “9AB” and 0.4 oz. “8AB.”
Next, let’s translate the Redken letters and numbers of hair dye. The whole numbers are more obvious, with 1 being the darkest, and 10 being the lightest. If a number has a decimal value, the number implies a slightly darker shade, such as 9.1 AB This shade is the tiniest bit darker than 9.
OK, now let’s translate the letters: A- ash tone B- blue tone (yes, blue; my 9.1AB has ash and blue to tone down brassiness, although you can buy a single blue shade too),
G- gold, C-copper, N – natural, V-violet, R-red (if it is Gr, it means golden red), W-warm, Ago just means Ash gold, B-beige, I – iridescent, Ag is ash green (not ash gold because gold and ash are nearly color opposites), M- espresso or mocha. There is a clear, which pulls the color out to a pale yellow state (in case of color mistakes).
Should a woman color her hair? My mom did not color her hair, but her mom (my grandma) did color hers. No woman should be forced to color her hair. My mom made that choice and was very happy. But a woman should not be forced to go gray if she wants colored hair. My grandmother did her best to match her natural color and not go gray. I respect both women, and I pray that as you read this post you never feel pressured to color your hair. This is fun for me, and I probably got into this because I grayed pre-maturely. At first I could pluck gray hairs (in my late 20s). Then in my 30’s and early 40’s, I used a paint brush to “highlight” the gray hairs to match my natural color. By my late 40’s I had to color my entire scalp of hair, since there were far too many gray (silver) hairs.
At my current age there are plenty of women with gray hair, but I still like to cover the gray. As I age I do have to choose lighter shades, to match the lighter roots. But this works for me. Please make the choice that you enjoy. May the Lord bless you as you find safe ways to care for your hair. Thanks for joining me as I shared my journey of hair care.
*** Here is the list of the most common toxic ingredients to avoid in your hair dye & developer (although also in any personal care product)**
Ammonia
DMDM Hydantoin — a preservative that slowly releases the toxic formaldehyde chemical
Anything ending in the word -Paraben
Resorcinol
6-Methoxy-2,3-Pyridinediamine and its HCl salt
2,3-Naphthalenediol
2,4-Diaminodiphenylamine
2,6-Bis(2-Hydroxyethoxy)-3,5-Pyridinediamine
2-Methoxymethyl-p-Aminophenol
4,5-Diamino-1-Methylpyrazole and its HCl salt
4,5-Diamino-1-((4-Chlorophenyl)Methyl)-1H-Pyrazole Sulfate
4-Chloro-2-Aminophenol 4-Hydroxyindole
4-Methoxytoluene-2,5-Diamine and its HCl salt
Para-toluenediamine (PTD)
5-Amino-4-Fluoro-2-Methylphenol Sulfate
N,N-Diethyl-m-Aminophenol
N,N-Dimethyl-2,6-Pyridinediamine and its HCl salt
N-Cyclopentyl-m-Aminophenol
N-(2-Methoxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine and its HCl salt
2,4-Diamino-5-methylphenetol and its HCl salt
1,7-Naphthalenediol
3,4-Diaminobenzoic acid
2-Aminomethyl-p-aminophenol and its HCl salt
Solvent Red 1 (CI 12150)
Acid Orange 24 (CI 20170)
Acid Red 73 (CI 27290)
Quaternium – 15
Titanium dioxide
Phthalates (might be hidden in fragrance, so avoid all fragrance)
Propylene Glycol
Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Methylisothiazolinone
Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEs)
Ethanolamines (MEA, TEA, DEA)
1-Naphthol
Toluene, Toluene-2,
5-Diamine
4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene
Amonium quaternay sanitizers (Quats)